{"id":1863,"date":"2020-03-01T16:10:25","date_gmt":"2020-03-01T15:10:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.projekt-mida.de\/?post_type=reflexicon&p=1863"},"modified":"2025-11-20T12:09:01","modified_gmt":"2025-11-20T11:09:01","slug":"locating-himalayan-porters-in-the-archivalien-der-expeditionsgesellschaften-of-the-german-alpine-club-1929-1939","status":"publish","type":"reflexicon","link":"https:\/\/www.projekt-mida.de\/en\/reflexicon\/locating-himalayan-porters-in-the-archivalien-der-expeditionsgesellschaften-of-the-german-alpine-club-1929-1939\/","title":{"rendered":"Locating Himalayan porters in the Archivalien der Expeditionsgesellschaften of the German Alpine Club (1929\u20131939)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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By Nokmedem\u00adla Lem\u00adtur
<\/strong>Pub\u00adlished in 2020<\/strong>
DOI<\/span> 10.25360\/01\u20132022-00026<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Image: A per\u00adson hik\u00ading in a snowy landscape.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Table of Con\u00adtents
<\/strong><\/a>Ger\u00admany in the Himalayas<\/a>  | Himalayan porters in the Ger\u00adman archive<\/a>  | Abbre\u00advi\u00ada\u00adtions<\/a> |   End\u00adnotes<\/a>  | Bib\u00adli\u00adog\u00adra\u00adphy<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The end of the nine\u00adteenth cen\u00adtu\u00adry wit\u00adnessed the start of climb\u00ading expe\u00addi\u00adtions in the Himalayas that were dis\u00adtinct from the ear\u00adli\u00ader expe\u00addi\u00adtions that focused on sur\u00advey\u00ading and explor\u00ading the region. Euro-Amer\u00adi\u00adcan climbers became fas\u00adci\u00adnat\u00aded with the idea of climb\u00ading the world\u2019s high\u00adest peaks and in the ear\u00adly twen\u00adti\u00adeth cen\u00adtu\u00adry launched attempts to break the alti\u00adtu\u00addi\u00adnal record. While the Eng\u00adlish began their attempts at climb\u00ading Mount Ever\u00adest from 1922 onwards, Ger\u00adman climbers launched their Himalayan expe\u00addi\u00adtions with their first attempt to climb Kangchen\u00adjun\u00adga in 1929. Between 1929 and 1939, Ger\u00admans under\u00adtook eleven moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading expe\u00addi\u00adtions to the Himalayan peaks. They were com\u00adpa\u00adra\u00adble only to the attempts by the British climb\u00ading expe\u00addi\u00adtions in the same period.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Deutsche Alpen\u00advere\u00adin<\/em> (DAV<\/span> \u2013 Ger\u00adman Alpine Club) and the Deutsche Himala\u00adja-Stiftung (DHS<\/span> \u2013 Ger\u00adman Himalaya Foun\u00adda\u00adtion) were the two insti\u00adtu\u00adtions that pro\u00advid\u00aded most of the sup\u00adport for these expe\u00addi\u00adtions. The DAV<\/span> was estab\u00adlished in 1869 in Munich for the pro\u00admo\u00adtion and sup\u00adport of Alpine tourism. It merged with the \u00d6ster\u00adre\u00adichis\u00adch\u00ader Alpen\u00advere\u00adin<\/em> (\u00d6AV<\/span> \u2013 Aus\u00adtri\u00adan Alpine Club) in 1873 to form the Deutsch\u00ader und \u00d6ster\u00adre\u00adichis\u00adch\u00ader Alpen\u00advere\u00adin<\/em> (Du\u00d6AV \u2013 Ger\u00adman and Aus\u00adtri\u00adan Alpine Club). In 1911, the DAV<\/span> Muse\u00adum was set up on Prater Island in Munich and still holds the archive at the same address.[1]<\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unlike state or eco\u00adnom\u00adic archives, the archive of the DAV<\/span> is a small\u00ader and more spe\u00adcif\u00adic insti\u00adtu\u00adtion. It is orga\u00adnized in sev\u00aden hold\u00adings (Best\u00e4nde<\/em>):<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  1. Archiva\u00adlien des DAV<\/span>, des Du\u00d6AV und der Sek\u00adtio\u00adnen (Records of the DAV<\/span>, the Du\u00d6AV and the Sections)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. His\u00adtorische Doku\u00admente zur Alp\u00adingeschichte (His\u00adtor\u00adi\u00adcal doc\u00adu\u00adments on alpine history)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Archiva\u00adlien der Expe\u00addi\u00adtion\u00ads\u00adge\u00adsellschaften (Archives of the Expe\u00addi\u00adtion Societies)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  4. Fotografien und Postkarten (Pho\u00adtographs and postcards)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  5. Per\u00adso\u00adnen\u00adnach\u00adl\u00e4sse (Pri\u00advate papers)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  6. Werbe\u00admit\u00adtel (Adver\u00adtis\u00ading material)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  7. Doku\u00admen\u00adta\u00adtio\u00adnen (Doc\u00adu\u00admen\u00adta\u00adtions)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    With\u00adin the frame\u00adwork of Indo-Ger\u00adman entan\u00adgle\u00adments, the hold\u00ading titled Archiva\u00adlien der Expe\u00addi\u00adtion\u00ads\u00adge\u00adsellschaften<\/em> is of spe\u00adcif\u00adic inter\u00adest, as it holds the files, pho\u00adto archive, film and audio mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal of the Ger\u00adman Himalayan Foun\u00adda\u00adtion (Akten, Fotoarchiv, Film- und Ton\u00adma\u00adte\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal der Deutschen Himala\u00adja-Stiftung).<\/em> The indi\u00advid\u00adual files of this hold\u00ading orig\u00adi\u00adnate from the many Himalayan expe\u00addi\u00adtions under\u00adtak\u00aden dur\u00ading the twen\u00adti\u00adeth century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    This post aims to pro\u00advide a guide to this spe\u00adcif\u00adic hold\u00ading of the DAV<\/span> archive that doc\u00adu\u00adments the begin\u00adning of Ger\u00adman moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading efforts in the Himalayas and, in doing so, high\u00adlights a unique facet of Indo-Ger\u00adman his\u00adto\u00adry as it attempts to uncov\u00ader traces of the non-elite or native expe\u00addi\u00adtion labour\u00aders. The first sec\u00adtion pro\u00advides the con\u00adtext and tra\u00adjec\u00adto\u00adry of the expe\u00addi\u00adtions, high\u00adlight\u00ading the con\u00addi\u00adtions under which such mate\u00adri\u00adals were pro\u00adduced. The sec\u00adond sec\u00adtion focus\u00ades on the hold\u00ading in the archive and the var\u00adi\u00adous mate\u00adri\u00adals that refer to the expe\u00addi\u00adtions\u2019 labourers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/a>Germany in the Himalayas<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    The Weimar years (1918\u20131933) marked a shift in the atti\u00adtude towards moun\u00adtains and moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading in Ger\u00admany from recu\u00adper\u00ada\u00adtive recre\u00adation to an asser\u00adtion of the ide\u00adol\u00ado\u00adgy of the nation. Accord\u00ading to Lee Holt, the First World War changed the envi\u00adsion\u00ading of the Alps, as they became \u201ca micro\u00adcosm of the nation, a geo\u00adgraph\u00adic site where moun\u00adtaineers would train the next gen\u00ader\u00ada\u00adtion of sol\u00addiers\u201d (Holt 2008: 4). The 1920s saw the emer\u00adgence of the alpine jour\u00adnals of Ger\u00admany and Aus\u00adtria encour\u00adag\u00ading peo\u00adple to look to the moun\u00adtains for strength and inspi\u00adra\u00adtion, as the moun\u00adtains would be the rem\u00ade\u00addy for the sick and weak nation (ibid.). The jour\u00adnals also called for the re-estab\u00adlish\u00adment of Germany\u2019s geopo\u00adlit\u00adi\u00adcal pres\u00adence, so Ger\u00adman alpine orga\u00adni\u00adza\u00adtions launched var\u00adi\u00adous expe\u00addi\u00adtions beyond their tra\u00addi\u00adtion\u00adal area of activ\u00adi\u00adty into the Pamirs and the Himalayas. The new moun\u00adtaineer embod\u00adied a new mas\u00adculin\u00adi\u00adty that drew upon sev\u00ader\u00adal dif\u00adfer\u00adent dis\u00adcours\u00ades of the Weimar Repub\u00adlic: body, behav\u00adiour, moral\u00adi\u00adty and spir\u00adi\u00adtu\u00adal\u00adi\u00adty became the quin\u00adtes\u00adsen\u00adtial qual\u00adi\u00adties of a moun\u00adtaineer who fre\u00adquent\u00adly rep\u00adre\u00adsent\u00aded both the Ger\u00adman nation and the promise of an impe\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal future (Ibid: 81).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    It was with\u00adin this con\u00adtext that Ger\u00adman moun\u00adtaineers start\u00aded look\u00ading towards the Himalayas and marked the begin\u00adning of a pro\u00adlonged effort to con\u00adquer Himalayan peaks, in par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar two peaks: Kangchen\u00adjun\u00adga (8598 m) in the east\u00adern Himalayas and Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat (8126 m) in the west\u00adern Himalayas. The first such expe\u00addi\u00adtion, led by Paul Bauer, was to Kangchen\u00adjun\u00adga in 1929. With a team of eight Ger\u00admans and two Eng\u00adlish\u00admen deputised to the expe\u00addi\u00adtion by the British colo\u00adnial gov\u00adern\u00adment, it man\u00adaged to climb to a height of 7,400 meters, but failed to reach the sum\u00admit. Anoth\u00ader expe\u00addi\u00adtion in 1930 led by the Aus\u00adtri\u00adan G\u00fcn\u00adter Oskar Dyhren\u00adf\u00fcrth (Die Inter\u00adna\u00adtionale Himalaya-Expe\u00addi\u00adtion (IHE<\/span>)) attempt\u00aded the same peak, but, hav\u00ading failed, attempt\u00aded and suc\u00adceed\u00aded in climb\u00ading the neigh\u00adbour\u00ading Jong\u00adsong, Ram\u00adtang and Nepal peaks. Bauer launched anoth\u00ader expe\u00addi\u00adtion to Kanchen\u00adjun\u00adga in 1931, but man\u00adaged to ascend only to a height of 7,775 m, the high\u00adest alti\u00adtude ever reached by any per\u00adson at that time. But, just as in 1929 dur\u00ading his first expe\u00addi\u00adtion, he again could not reach the peak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Hav\u00ading failed to scale the third high\u00adest peak of the world, there was a shift in focus towards Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat in the west\u00adern Himalayas, to which the Ger\u00admans felt they had a con\u00adnec\u00adtion. The dis\u00adcov\u00adery of Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat is ascribed to Adolf Schlag\u00adin\u00adtweit,[2]<\/a> who in 1856 trav\u00adelled this region and not\u00aded this par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar sum\u00admit for its tow\u00ader\u00ading height, over\u00adshad\u00adow\u00ading all oth\u00ader snowy peaks (Mason 1955: 82). The first climb\u00ading attempt is attrib\u00aduted to the British climber A.F Mum\u00admery, who tried to scale it in 1895. How\u00adev\u00ader, this attempt end\u00aded in tragedy with the dis\u00adap\u00adpear\u00adance of Mum\u00admery and the Gurkha sol\u00addiers who accom\u00adpa\u00adnied him.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    In 1932, per\u00admis\u00adsion was giv\u00aden to a Ger\u00adman-Amer\u00adi\u00adcan Himalayan Expe\u00addi\u00adtion led by Willy Merkl to climb Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat, but it failed to reach the sum\u00admit, owing to weath\u00ader con\u00addi\u00adtions and labour trou\u00adbles. Prepa\u00adra\u00adtion for anoth\u00ader attempt began almost imme\u00addi\u00adate\u00adly with renewed sup\u00adport from the Ger\u00adman gov\u00adern\u00adment. In 1933, the Ger\u00adman Alpine Club was brought under the Deutsch\u00ader Reichs\u00adbund f\u00fcr Leibes\u00fcbun\u00adgen<\/em>, (DRfL \u2013 Ger\u00adman Nation\u00adal Fed\u00ader\u00ada\u00adtion for Phys\u00adi\u00adcal Exer\u00adcise) (Holt 2008: 265). This move brought the nar\u00adra\u00adtive of Ger\u00adman moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading under the con\u00adtrol of the Nation\u00adal Social\u00adist par\u00adty, which had come to pow\u00ader in Ger\u00admany. The Reich Sports Leader Hans von Tscham\u00admer und Osten pro\u00advid\u00aded gov\u00adern\u00adment sup\u00adport to the expe\u00addi\u00adtion by apply\u00ading for and get\u00adting approval for the nec\u00ades\u00adsary trav\u00adel visas through British India. Hav\u00ading received greater fund\u00ading through the Bund der deutschen Reichs\u00adbahn-Turn- und Sportvere\u00adine<\/em> (Sports Club of the Ger\u00adman State Rail\u00adways), Not\u00adge\u00admein\u00adschaft der Deutschen Wis\u00adsenschaft<\/em> (Soci\u00adety for Ger\u00adman Sci\u00aden\u00adtists) and the Du\u00d6AV, this expe\u00addi\u00adtion was the grand\u00adest so far in terms of its abil\u00adi\u00adty to equip and pro\u00advide for not only the Ger\u00adman climbers but also the Sher\u00adpa porters, who were recruit\u00aded from Dar\u00adjeel\u00ading (Bech\u00adtold 1936: xvi\u00adii). This expe\u00addi\u00adtion end\u00aded in dis\u00adas\u00adter with the deaths of four Ger\u00adman climbers \u2013 Alfred Drex\u00adel, Uli Wei\u00adland, Wil\u00adlo Welzen\u00adbach and Willy Merkl \u2013 and six Sher\u00adpa porters from Dar\u00adjeel\u00ading \u2013 Nima Nor\u00adbu, Nimu Dor\u00adje, Dak\u00adshi, Gay\u00adlay, Pin\u00adzo Nor\u00adbu and Nima Tashi. At that time, reports of what was con\u00adsid\u00adered the great\u00adest-ever climb\u00ading dis\u00adas\u00adter spread across the world and espe\u00adcial\u00adly to the Ger\u00adman public.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    In the Ger\u00adman imag\u00adi\u00adna\u00adtion, Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat became renowned as the Schick\u00adsals\u00adberg \u2013 <\/em>the moun\u00adtain of des\u00adtiny (H\u00f6busch 2002). Renewed efforts to climb the peak mate\u00adri\u00adal\u00adized in the form of the estab\u00adlish\u00adment of the Ger\u00adman Himalayan Foun\u00adda\u00adtion (Deutsche Himalaya Stiftung) under the Min\u00adistry of Cul\u00adture in Bavaria in 1936 (Mier\u00adau 1999). The foun\u00adda\u00adtion was cre\u00adat\u00aded to sup\u00adport climb\u00ading and sci\u00aden\u00adtif\u00adic expe\u00addi\u00adtions to the Himalayas and marked a new chap\u00adter in Ger\u00adman efforts to con\u00adquer the Himalayan peak, as it pro\u00advid\u00aded even greater sup\u00adport for plan\u00adning such expe\u00addi\u00adtions. In the same year, per\u00admis\u00adsion was denied for any expe\u00addi\u00adtions to this region due to the Kash\u00admir Durbar\u2019s appre\u00adhen\u00adsions about such enter\u00adpris\u00ades\u2019 demands on the resources of the land. An expe\u00addi\u00adtion to Sin\u00adiolchu peak in Sikkim was instead organ\u00adised with Paul Bauer as leader. It suc\u00adceed\u00aded in the first-ever ascent of Sin\u00adiolchu (6891 m) and oth\u00ader sur\u00adround\u00ading peaks \u2013 Simvu (6550) and Nepal peak (7150 m). A mem\u00adber of this expe\u00addi\u00adtion, Karl Wien, became the leader of the next Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat expe\u00addi\u00adtion in 1937. This attempt turned out to be a big\u00adger dis\u00adas\u00adter than the pre\u00advi\u00adous one, with six\u00adteen fatal\u00adi\u00adties (sev\u00aden Ger\u00adman climbers and nine porters). An ice avalanche com\u00adplete\u00adly wiped out Camp IV<\/span>, where the six\u00adteen mem\u00adbers had camped.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The dis\u00adas\u00adters of 1934 and 1937 were glo\u00adri\u00adfied to the Ger\u00adman pub\u00adlic in fic\u00adtion and news\u00adpa\u00adper pub\u00adli\u00adca\u00adtions as the sac\u00adri\u00adfice of eleven Ger\u00adman patri\u00adots. Harold H\u00f6busch shows how Ad. W. Kr\u00fcger\u2019s nov\u00adel Der Kampf um den Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat<\/em> (The Strug\u00adgle for Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat, 1941) dra\u00adma\u00adtizes the 1934 expe\u00addi\u00adtion and puts great empha\u00adsis on loy\u00adal\u00adty and cama\u00adraderie (H\u00f6busch 2003: 27). The deaths of the moun\u00adtaineers were ele\u00advat\u00aded to mar\u00adtyr\u00addom and used for pro\u00adpa\u00adgan\u00addis\u00adtic pur\u00adpos\u00ades after the Nation\u00adal Social\u00adist ascent to pow\u00ader in 1933 (H\u00f6busch 2003: 32). Fritz Bechtold\u2019s Deutsche am Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat <\/em>(1935 \u2013 Ger\u00admans on Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat<\/em>), the most famous work of Ger\u00adman alpine lit\u00ader\u00ada\u00adture in the first half of the twen\u00adti\u00adeth cen\u00adtu\u00adry, went through twelve edi\u00adtions until 1944 (Holt 2008: 275). Bechtold\u2019s nar\u00adra\u00adtive of the 1934 expe\u00addi\u00adtion con\u00adstruct\u00aded the expe\u00addi\u00adtion in line with the fas\u00adcist ide\u00adol\u00ado\u00adgy of sport. The key com\u00adpo\u00adnents of his book stressed the mar\u00adshalling of chaos into order, adhered to the F\u00fchrer prin\u00adci\u00adple, depict\u00aded \u201conly Ger\u00adman\u201d mem\u00adbers and used mil\u00adi\u00adtary rhetoric to praise the sac\u00adri\u00adfice of the indi\u00advid\u00adual in serv\u00ading the nation and dis\u00adci\u00adplin\u00ading the body (H\u00f6busch 2002). The doc\u00adu\u00admen\u00adtary Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat: Ein Kampf\u00adbericht der deutschen Himala\u00adja-Expe\u00addi\u00adtion 1934 <\/em>(Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat: A Front\u00adline Report on the Ger\u00adman Himalaya Expe\u00addi\u00adtion of 1934<\/em>, 1935) was used as pro\u00adpa\u00adgan\u00adda in the Third Reich for over two years and was also shown at the end of the Win\u00adter Olympics of 1936 (Holt 2008: 275). There was anoth\u00ader expe\u00addi\u00adtion in 1938 led by Paul Bauer by anoth\u00ader route with the base camp at either Mansehra or Abb\u00adotabad.[3]<\/a> This attempt failed, and so did the sub\u00adse\u00adquent expe\u00addi\u00adtion in 1939 led by Peter Auf\u00adschnaiter, which was cut short due to the dec\u00adla\u00adra\u00adtion of war between Ger\u00admany and England.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    \"European
    Fig. 1<\/strong> \u201cSahibs and porters at the Base Camp\u201d. Paul Bauer (1938). Himalayan Quest: The Ger\u00adman Expe\u00addi\u00adtions in Sin\u00adiolchum and Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat. Plate 74.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    <\/a>Himalayan porters in the German archive<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Prepa\u00adra\u00adtion for such expe\u00addi\u00adtions required exten\u00adsive com\u00admu\u00adni\u00adca\u00adtion and co-ordi\u00adna\u00adtion between Ger\u00admany and the British gov\u00adern\u00adment in India, which, apart from pro\u00advid\u00ading logis\u00adti\u00adcal sup\u00adport in the form of loan\u00ading trans\u00adport offi\u00adcers and grant\u00adi\u00adng cus\u00adtoms exemp\u00adtions, also act\u00aded as inter\u00adme\u00addi\u00adaries to the provin\u00adcial pow\u00aders in Kash\u00admir and Sikkim. These cor\u00adre\u00adspon\u00addences form the transna\u00adtion\u00adal entan\u00adgle\u00adment at the lev\u00adel of inter\u00adna\u00adtion\u00adal diplo\u00adma\u00adcy and col\u00adlab\u00ado\u00adra\u00adtion between the two coun\u00adtries. Such mate\u00adri\u00adals are often locat\u00aded in state archives and make lit\u00adtle men\u00adtion of the porters who were recruit\u00aded for these expe\u00addi\u00adtions. In the absence of any Indi\u00adan \u201cclimbers\u201d, the porters who car\u00adried the loads up the moun\u00adtains and served the Ger\u00adman climbers were the native coun\u00adter\u00adpart in this Indo-Ger\u00adman expe\u00adri\u00adence. The per\u00adceived prob\u00adlem in doing research on this par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar group is the pauci\u00adty of archival mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal. Very lit\u00adtle is known about them. The objec\u00adtive here is to trace evi\u00addence of a group of peo\u00adple who were so vital to these expe\u00addi\u00adtions but are hid\u00adden from the dom\u00adi\u00adnant nar\u00adra\u00adtives of moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading and labour history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    A clear illus\u00adtra\u00adtion of the pres\u00adence of the Himalayan porters is the 1934 expe\u00addi\u00adtion to Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat led by Willy Merkl, which con\u00adsist\u00aded of thir\u00adty-five porters recruit\u00aded from Dar\u00adjeel\u00ading, five-hun\u00addred Kash\u00admiri porters and forty Balti (from Baltistan) porters. The ratio of Ger\u00adman climbers to native porters clear\u00adly points to the sig\u00adnif\u00adi\u00adcance of the porters. The chal\u00adlenge is to locate them in the enor\u00admous paper trail these expe\u00addi\u00adtions left behind. The hold\u00ading Archiva\u00adlien der Expe\u00addi\u00adtion\u00ads\u00adge\u00adsellschaften <\/em>with\u00adin the DAV<\/span> Archive ori\u00adents the researcher towards a spe\u00adcif\u00adic inter\u00adven\u00adtion in Ger\u00adman moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading his\u00adto\u00adry, as it con\u00adtains doc\u00adu\u00adments of the Deutsche Himala\u00adja Stiftung (DHS<\/span>). The DHS<\/span> orga\u00adnized nine expe\u00addi\u00adtions to the Himalayas until 1957. Fol\u00adlow\u00ading this, the DHS<\/span> was accept\u00aded into the DAV<\/span> and was sub\u00adse\u00adquent\u00adly renamed Himala\u00adja-Stiftung im DAV<\/span> (the Himalaya Foun\u00adda\u00adtion in the DAV<\/span>) (Mier\u00adau 1999). There\u00adafter, the Himala\u00adja-Stiftung con\u00adtin\u00adued to sup\u00adport var\u00adi\u00adous expe\u00addi\u00adtions until its dis\u00adso\u00adlu\u00adtion in 1998. In 1994, the Stiftung\u2019s archive was trans\u00adferred to the cen\u00adtral archive of the DAV<\/span> in Munich, where it has been com\u00adpiled under the hold\u00ading men\u00adtioned above; this post looks at the ear\u00adly years of the Stiftung\u2019s operation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The list of records of the DHS<\/span> from its con\u00adcep\u00adtion in 1936 to its dis\u00adso\u00adlu\u00adtion in 1998 is avail\u00adable in the online find\u00ading aid https:\/\/www.historisches-alpenarchiv.org\/<\/a> (as are records from oth\u00ader hold\u00adings of the DAV<\/span>). On inputting key\u00adwords such as \u201cindi\u00aden\u201d or \u201chimala\u00adja\u201d, the online find\u00ading aid pro\u00advides a com\u00adpre\u00adhen\u00adsive list of archival mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal rang\u00ading from writ\u00adten records (Schriftgut<\/em>) to pho\u00adtographs and maps from the var\u00adi\u00adous expe\u00addi\u00adtions. The find\u00ading aid pro\u00advides search results down to spe\u00adcif\u00adic writ\u00adten or visu\u00adal records. These doc\u00adu\u00adments appear with the sig\u00adna\u00adture EXP<\/span>, <\/strong>which sig\u00adni\u00adfies the doc\u00adu\u00adments with\u00adin the hold\u00ading of the expe\u00addi\u00adtion organ\u00adi\u00adsa\u00adtion or soci\u00adeties (Expe\u00addi\u00adtion\u00ads\u00adge\u00adsellschaften<\/em>). More spe\u00adcif\u00adic key\u00adwords like \u201cMerkl\u201d or \u201cDyhren\u00adf\u00fcrth\u201d pro\u00advide fur\u00adther infor\u00adma\u00adtion; their use pre\u00adsup\u00adpos\u00ades a more thor\u00adough pri\u00ador knowl\u00adedge of spe\u00adcif\u00adic indi\u00advid\u00adu\u00adals involved in the expe\u00addi\u00adtions. How\u00adev\u00ader, the search results are not an exhaus\u00adtive list, as some doc\u00adu\u00adments in con\u00adnec\u00adtion with the expe\u00addi\u00adtions are found across oth\u00ader hold\u00adings of the archive. An exam\u00adple to illus\u00adtrate this is the 1936 expe\u00addi\u00adtion to Sin\u00adiolchu led by Paul Bauer. Most of the infor\u00adma\u00adtion per\u00adtain\u00ading to this is locat\u00aded in the soci\u00adety hold\u00ading and appears with the sig\u00adna\u00adture EXP<\/span>. How\u00adev\u00ader, a report by a mem\u00adber of the same expe\u00addi\u00adtion, Fritz Schmitt, is found in the pri\u00advate paper hold\u00ading (Per\u00adso\u00adnen\u00adnach\u00adl\u00e4sse<\/em>) under the sig\u00adna\u00adture NAS<\/span>. Fur\u00adther, mis\u00adcel\u00adla\u00adneous cor\u00adre\u00adspon\u00addences can also be found in the hold\u00adings of var\u00adi\u00adous sec\u00adtions of the archive, which is recog\u00adnised by the SEK<\/span> sig\u00adna\u00adture.[4]<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The hold\u00ading of the expe\u00addi\u00adtion soci\u00adeties is extreme\u00adly rich in data on var\u00adi\u00adous aspects of the expe\u00addi\u00adtions, but to find infor\u00adma\u00adtion on the porters requires a more care\u00adful analy\u00adsis of the mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal. The records pro\u00adduced by these expe\u00addi\u00adtions can be divid\u00aded into two broad cat\u00ade\u00adgories. The first cat\u00ade\u00adgo\u00adry com\u00adpris\u00ades expe\u00addi\u00adtion reports and the offi\u00adcial pub\u00adli\u00adca\u00adtion of such reports in the form of arti\u00adcles in jour\u00adnals, news\u00adpa\u00adpers and ulti\u00admate\u00adly the pub\u00adlished expe\u00addi\u00adtion mono\u00adgraph. Such mate\u00adri\u00adals are iden\u00adti\u00adfied by read\u00ading files titled \u201cPresse<\/em>\u201d or \u201cBericht<\/em>\u201d (Press mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal or Reports). The tropes such nar\u00adra\u00adtives fall into are com\u00adpa\u00adra\u00adble to those of trav\u00adel writ\u00adings that begin with the traveller\u2019s prepa\u00adra\u00adtion and descrip\u00adtion of the jour\u00adney. As was com\u00admon in trav\u00adel lit\u00ader\u00ada\u00adture of the late nine\u00adteenth and ear\u00adly twen\u00adti\u00adeth cen\u00adtu\u00adry, the fig\u00adure of the native appears in anec\u00addo\u00adtal encoun\u00adters, and the writ\u00aders\u2019 descrip\u00adtion of such encoun\u00adters became a part of the process of knowl\u00adedge pro\u00adduc\u00adtion. In their inves\u00adti\u00adga\u00adtion of porter rela\u00adtions in the Karako\u00adrams, Mac\u00adDon\u00adald and Butz (1998) explain that trav\u00adel in the Himalayas was reg\u00adu\u00adlat\u00aded by a set of com\u00adplex and large\u00adly tac\u00adit rules pre\u00adscribed by the colo\u00adnial state, and this large\u00adly influ\u00adenced the rela\u00adtions between the trav\u00adeller as the sahib<\/em> and his native com\u00adpan\u00adions as the porters or coolies <\/em>(Mac\u00adDon\u00adald &<\/span> Butz 1998). This in turn solid\u00adi\u00adfied the role that such actors played and lim\u00adit\u00aded their abil\u00adi\u00adty to tran\u00adscend this par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar posi\u00adtion. These authors high\u00adlight the cru\u00adcial point that labour is not a sta\u00adt\u00adic cat\u00ade\u00adgo\u00adry in the nar\u00adra\u00adtives pro\u00adduced about the expe\u00adri\u00adences of trav\u00adel, moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading and explo\u00adration. The chang\u00ading descrip\u00adtions of labour reflect the inter\u00adnal agency of the labour\u00aders (Mac\u00adDon\u00adald &<\/span> Butz 1998: 300\u2013301). Such accounts cre\u00adate nar\u00adra\u00adtives of the expe\u00adri\u00adences gen\u00ader\u00adat\u00ading knowl\u00adedge in which the descrip\u00adtive becomes the nor\u00adma\u00adtive. These doc\u00adu\u00adments are pep\u00adpered with anec\u00addotes men\u00adtion\u00ading par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar porters, often nar\u00adrat\u00ading par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar instances, which in turn become part of the cor\u00adpus that becomes com\u00adplic\u00adit in cre\u00adat\u00ading and per\u00adpet\u00adu\u00adat\u00ading stereo\u00adtypes. The files con\u00adtain\u00ading press mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal also often men\u00adtion the porter as part of the logis\u00adti\u00adcal data. How\u00adev\u00ader, on rare occa\u00adsions, a larg\u00ader report on the porters can be found, most\u00adly in the after\u00admath of a dis\u00adas\u00adter in the mountain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The sec\u00adond cat\u00ade\u00adgo\u00adry of archival mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal is files con\u00adtain\u00ading exten\u00adsive lists of Aus\u00adr\u00fcs\u00adtung<\/em> und<\/em> Verpfle\u00adgung<\/em> (Equip\u00adment and Pro\u00advi\u00adsions), Finanzen <\/em>(Finances), Ver\u00adschiedene Erk\u00adl\u00e4run\u00adgen <\/em>(Var\u00adi\u00adous Expla\u00adna\u00adtions) etc. These records range from thick files con\u00adtain\u00ading numer\u00adous cor\u00adre\u00adspon\u00addences and draft lists of food items and equip\u00adment to be pro\u00adcured and packed in var\u00adi\u00adous box\u00ades for the expe\u00addi\u00adtion to pay\u00adrolls and the dis\u00adtri\u00adb\u00adu\u00adtion of loads dur\u00ading the advance and load-fer\u00adry\u00ading up and down the moun\u00adtain. Loose doc\u00adu\u00adments detail exten\u00adsive plan\u00adning of what kind of food and equip\u00adment to be car\u00adried not only for the climbers, but for the porters as well. This detailed atten\u00adtion to the pro\u00advi\u00adsions pro\u00advides infor\u00adma\u00adtion on minute aspects of the organ\u00adi\u00adsa\u00adtion, but also the desire to pre\u00advent any delays in the expe\u00addi\u00adtions, as the most like\u00adly cause of labour trou\u00adbles was insuf\u00adfi\u00adcient pro\u00advi\u00adsions or cloth\u00ading and equip\u00adment. The porter is men\u00adtioned often in two cat\u00ade\u00adgories \u2013 Tr\u00e4ger <\/em>and Kuli<\/em>. The first term direct\u00adly denotes porter and the sec\u00adond is the oft-used term for unskilled coolie labour in the Indi\u00adan sub\u00adcon\u00adti\u00adnent. The doc\u00adu\u00adments do not clear\u00adly men\u00adtion a dif\u00adfer\u00adence between the two and sug\u00adgest that the terms could have been used inter\u00adchange\u00adably in these instances.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"Account
    Fig. 2<\/strong> Account books of the Sikkim Expe\u00addi\u00adtion of 1936 (Archiv des DAV<\/span>, Munich)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    The most reveal\u00ading of all these are doc\u00adu\u00adments on expe\u00addi\u00adtion finances. Such mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal ranges from broad state\u00adments on income and expen\u00addi\u00adture to the dai\u00adly book\u00adkeep\u00ading of the expe\u00addi\u00adtion. This mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal con\u00adtains the fin\u00adger\u00adprints of the porter, both fig\u00adu\u00adra\u00adtive\u00adly and lit\u00ader\u00adal\u00adly. A file titled Broch\u00fcre<\/em> con\u00adtains details of the porters recruit\u00aded in Dar\u00adjeel\u00ading with their per\u00adson\u00adal infor\u00adma\u00adtion, such as their address\u00ades, next of kin and fin\u00adger\u00adprints, the details of their pay\u00adment depend\u00ading on which camp the par\u00adtic\u00adu\u00adlar porter went up to and at the end a remark by the Euro\u00adpean climber, his sahib, com\u00adment\u00ading on his per\u00adfor\u00admance on the moun\u00adtain, which would deter\u00admine his employ\u00adment on future expe\u00addi\u00adtions.[5]<\/a> The pages of this reg\u00adis\u00adter account for only a hand\u00adful of the porters, includ\u00ading the cook and the sir\u00addar (Tr\u00e4ger\u00adob\u00admann <\/em>\u2013 porters\u2019 fore\u00adman) and sug\u00adgest that these indi\u00advid\u00adu\u00adals were per\u00adson\u00adal\u00adly con\u00adnect\u00aded to each climber, as it was the prac\u00adtice to have a per\u00adson\u00adal ser\u00advant or order\u00adly serv\u00ading each indi\u00advid\u00adual climber dur\u00ading the course of the expe\u00addi\u00adtion. Such sources pro\u00advide the pos\u00adsi\u00adbil\u00adi\u00adty to trace pay\u00adments down to the indi\u00advid\u00adual porters and even an oppor\u00adtu\u00adni\u00adty to recon\u00adstruct per\u00adson\u00adal his\u00adto\u00adries. With\u00adin the var\u00adi\u00adous files are cor\u00adre\u00adspon\u00addences from indi\u00advid\u00adual porters them\u00adselves. These are addressed to the Ger\u00adman climbers like Bauer, request\u00ading ref\u00ader\u00adences that would help them gain employ\u00adment on future expe\u00addi\u00adtions.[6]<\/a> These rare cor\u00adre\u00adspon\u00addences raise the ques\u00adtion of the lit\u00ader\u00ada\u00adcy of the porters and the con\u00adtext in which they were able to write or have some\u00adbody write on their behalf.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"
    Fig. 3<\/strong> Pay\u00adment and per\u00adson\u00adal details of under-sir\u00addar Hishey for the 1936 expe\u00addi\u00adtion (Archiv des DAV<\/span>, M\u00fcnchen)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    The doc\u00adu\u00adments in the Archiva\u00adlien der Expe\u00addi\u00adtion\u00ads\u00adge\u00adsellschaften <\/em>high\u00adlight the unique\u00adness of the expe\u00addi\u00adtion labour. They speak of an atyp\u00adi\u00adcal work\u00adforce with tan\u00adgents that show link\u00adages to the mil\u00adi\u00adtary labour mar\u00adket, the remit\u00adtance econ\u00ado\u00admy and house\u00adhold strate\u00adgies, as well as iden\u00adti\u00adfi\u00adable indi\u00advid\u00adu\u00adals with some lev\u00adel of lit\u00ader\u00ada\u00adcy. Recov\u00ader\u00ading \u201chid\u00adden tran\u00adscripts\u201d \u2013 con\u00adcealed strate\u00adgies of resis\u00adtance or nego\u00adti\u00ada\u00adtion embed\u00added in the pub\u00adlic inter\u00adac\u00adtions between groups in unequal posi\u00adtions of pow\u00ader \u2013 was an acces\u00adsi\u00adble approach for\u00admu\u00adlat\u00aded by James Scott in order to trace the lives of sub\u00ador\u00addi\u00adnat\u00aded groups that do not leave behind much evi\u00addence of their own expe\u00adri\u00adences (Scott 1990). A care\u00adful glean\u00ading of this hold\u00ading brings to light mate\u00adri\u00adals that can help write non-elite his\u00adto\u00adries, to fol\u00adlow per\u00adson\u00adal tra\u00adjec\u00adto\u00adries or the his\u00adto\u00adry of a group of peo\u00adple with\u00adout being lim\u00adit\u00aded to search\u00ading for \u201chid\u00adden transcripts\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    This hold\u00ading of the DAV<\/span> on the expe\u00addi\u00adtions to the Himalayas pro\u00advides the details con\u00adnect\u00aded with labour\u00ading indi\u00advid\u00adu\u00adals that can be linked to mate\u00adri\u00adals from oth\u00ader archives to per\u00adhaps write a his\u00adto\u00adry of the lives of the Himalayan expe\u00addi\u00adtion labour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/a>Abbreviations<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    DAV<\/span> \u2014 Deutsch\u00ader Alpen\u00advere\u00adin (Ger\u00adman Alpine Club)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    DHS<\/span> \u2014 Deutsche Himala\u00adja-Stiftung (Ger\u00adman Himalaya Foundation)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u00d6AV<\/span> \u2014 \u00d6ster\u00adre\u00adichis\u00adch\u00ader Alpen\u00advere\u00adin (Aus\u00adtri\u00adan Alpine Club)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Du\u00d6AV \u2014 Deutsch\u00ader und \u00d6ster\u00adre\u00adichis\u00adch\u00ader Alpen\u00advere\u00adin (Ger\u00adman and Aus\u00adtri\u00adan Alpine Club)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    IHE<\/span> \u2014 Die Inter\u00adna\u00adtionale Himalaya-Expe\u00addi\u00adtion (The Inter\u00adna\u00adtion\u00adal Himalaya Expedition)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    DRfL \u2014 Deutsch\u00ader Reichs\u00adbund f\u00fcr Leibes\u00fcbun\u00adgen (Ger\u00adman Nation\u00adal Fed\u00ader\u00ada\u00adtion for Phys\u00adi\u00adcal Exercise)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Endnotes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    [1]<\/a> https:\/\/www.alpenverein.de\/geschichte\/<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    [2]<\/a>The archive of the DAV<\/span> also holds a large col\u00adlec\u00adtion of pri\u00adma\u00adry mate\u00adr\u00adi\u00adal from the Schlag\u00adin\u00adtweit brothers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    [3]<\/a>\u201cGer\u00adman Expe\u00addi\u00adtion to Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat\u201d, Times [Lon\u00addon, Eng\u00adland] 2 Feb. 1938: pp. 10. The Times Dig\u00adi\u00adtal Archive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    [4]<\/a>This post is based on the research con\u00adduct\u00aded between August to Novem\u00adber 2019. A new online data\u00adbase will be updat\u00aded in March 2020.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    [5]<\/a>DAV<\/span> EXP<\/span> 2 SG<\/span>\/206\/0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    [6]<\/a>DAV<\/span> EXP<\/span> 2 SG<\/span>\/197, 198, 199, 200\/0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/a>Bibliography<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Bauer, Paul (ed.), Himalayan Quest: The Ger\u00adman Expe\u00addi\u00adtions to Sin\u00adiolchum and Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat<\/em>. Lon\u00addon: Nichol\u00adson and Wat\u00adson Ltd., 1938.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Bech\u00adtold, Fritz, Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat Adven\u00adture: A Himalayan Expe\u00addi\u00adtion<\/em>. 1st ed. New York: E. P. Dut\u00adton and Com\u00adpa\u00adny Inc., 1936.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    H\u00f6busch, Har\u00adald, \u201cNar\u00adrat\u00ading Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat: Ger\u00adman Himalaya Expe\u00addi\u00adtions and the Fic\u00adtion\u00adal (Re)Construction of Nation\u00adal Iden\u00adti\u00adty\u201d. Sport\u00ading Tra\u00addi\u00adtions<\/em> 20, 1 (2003): pp. 17\u201342.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u2014\u2014\u2013, \u201cGermany\u2019s \u2018Moun\u00adtain of Des\u00adtiny\u2019: Nan\u00adga Par\u00adbat and Nation\u00adal Self-Rep\u00adre\u00adsen\u00adta\u00adtion\u201d. The Inter\u00adna\u00adtion\u00adal Jour\u00adnal of the His\u00adto\u00adry of Sport <\/em>19, 4 (2002): pp. 137\u201368. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/714001794<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Holt, Lee Wal\u00adlace, \u201cMoun\u00adtains, Moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading and Moder\u00adni\u00adty: A Cul\u00adtur\u00adal His\u00adto\u00adry of Ger\u00adman and Aus\u00adtri\u00adan Moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading, 1900\u20131945\u201d. Dis\u00adser\u00adta\u00adtion, Uni\u00adver\u00adsi\u00adty of Texas at Austin, Ger\u00adman\u00adic Stud\u00adies, 2008. http:\/\/hdl.handle.net\/2152\/3901<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Mason, Ken\u00adneth, Abode of Snow. A His\u00adto\u00adry of Himalayan Explo\u00adration and Moun\u00adtaineer\u00ading<\/em> [with plates and maps]. Lon\u00addon: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1955.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Mier\u00adau, Peter, Die Deutsche Himala\u00adja-Stiftung Von 1936 Bis 1998: Ihre Geschichte Und Ihre Expe\u00addi\u00adtio\u00adnen<\/em>. Doku\u00admente des Alpin\u00adis\u00admus Bd. 2. Munich: Bergver\u00adlag Rother, 1999.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Scott, James C., Dom\u00adi\u00adna\u00adtion and the Arts of Resis\u00adtance: Hid\u00adden Tran\u00adscripts<\/em>. New Haven and Lon\u00addon: Yale Uni\u00adver\u00adsi\u00adty Press, 1990.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Nokmedem\u00adla Lem\u00adtur, CeMIS<\/em>, Georg-August-Uni\u00adver\u00adsit\u00e4t G\u00f6ttingen<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    <\/div>\n\n\n\n

    MIDA<\/span> Archival Reflex\u00adi\u00adcon<\/strong>

    Edi\u00adtors: Anan\u00addi\u00adta Baj\u00adpai, Heike Liebau<\/strong>
    Lay\u00adout: Mon\u00adja Hof\u00admann, Nico Putz<\/strong>
    Host: ZMO<\/span>, Kirch\u00adweg 33, 14129 Berlin<\/strong>
    Con\u00adtact: archival.reflexicon [at] zmo.de<\/strong>

    ISSN<\/span> 2628\u20135029<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":1895,"template":"","categories":[54],"tags":[81,85],"class_list":["post-1863","reflexicon","type-reflexicon","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-reflexicon","tag-geschichte-der-arbeit","tag-labour-history"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLocating Himalayan porters in the Archivalien der Expeditionsgesellschaften of the German Alpine Club (1929-1939) - MIDA<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nokmedemla Lemtur on the traces of Himalayan porters and German Himalaya expeditions in the archive of the German Alpine Club (DAV).\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.projekt-mida.de\/en\/reflexicon\/locating-himalayan-porters-in-the-archivalien-der-expeditionsgesellschaften-of-the-german-alpine-club-1929-1939\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Locating Himalayan porters in the Archivalien der Expeditionsgesellschaften of the German Alpine Club (1929-1939) - 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